Ride Splitpig Snowboard 2023

Regular price $1,999.95 Save $0.00
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Warpig Telemark SKIS!

The SPLITPIG is the WARPIG shape that breaks in half so you can walk up mountains and thrash every feature on the way down. Its got the flex of a WARPIG with a Carbon Race Base and a little bit of camber for the climb. Featuring a brushed nylon topsheet to reduce weight while shedding snow. The Split Performance Core features a Slimewall ® center sidewall for maximum vibration damping. The Channel Binding Mounting System allows for more stance options and a much easier setup than standard split inserts, which limit stance options. The SPLITPIG comes with Pomoca Climb 2.0 skins custom fit to the shape and a canted binding mounting puck that works with some split bindings on the market. Forget custom-cutting your skins and well cut to the chase: The SPLITPIG will allow you to access more off-piste locations in the mountains.

Rider Type:  Splitboarding

Shape: Directional

Flex: Medium

Rocker: Rocker nose / Camber underfoot

Ability Level:  Advanced / Expert


Rocker Type

Directional Hybrid Camber – A directional shape with a hybrid profile that has more camber than rocker.


Medium Response


Tapered Directional

Tapered Bi-Radial Sidecut – A twin sidecut which allows for the underfoot width of a wide board in the tip/tail width of a standard size. This design provides improved leverage on landings, grip through turns, and stability on flat base.


Performance™ Core – High strength Aspen is combined with Bamboo and lightweight Paulownia wood to provide the perfect balance of strong and light.


Double Impact Plates – Added underneath each binding area to improve compressive strength and prevent board breaks where it matters most. Offered in two levels, Single and Double.

Carbon Array 3™ – This power distribution technology provides total board control in every stance location. Widespread carbon stringers placed at the binding zone gather input from any stance width and all pressure angles. Rider input is then channeled to the opposing contact point for maximum board control. Offered in two levels of technology, 3 & 5.

Hybrid Glass – Triaxial on top, biaxial on base; balanced torsional flex and stiffness for better response with speed.


Slimewalls® – RIDE’s exclusive Slimewalls® are forgiving and ductile, absorbing impacts rather than defending against them. Just like your skate wheels, the urethane in Slimewalls® smoothes the interaction with the snow, wood or metal surfaces you may ride on. On top of all that, these babies are virtually indestructible, the most durable sidewalls in snowboarding.

Roll-In Construction – Unique 3D structure built around the urethane Slimewall® sidewalls. Designed to increase overall board strength, prevent topsheet chipping, and reduce weight.


Sintered, Stone Ground Race Base – High-end sintered 4000 Ptex base material that is more durable, harder and faster than extruded.


Brushed Topsheet

Additional Features

Includes Pre-Cut Pomoca Climb 2.0 Mohair / Nylon Blend Skins

Binding Compatibility

Includes Pucks – Pucks allow for mounting of some bindings (Spark, Burton, Volle, K2). 3-degree cant.

Channel Binding Mounting System


The SPLITPIG requires the use of a splitboard binding or a kit that converts your standard binding into a splitboard binding. RIDE does not currently make a splitboard binding, but Voll © makes a kit that will allow you to use your RIDE binding on this splitboard. The SPLITPIG comes with a canted puck that will work with a number of splitboard bindings that normally require you to purchase the puck separately (Spark, Burton, Volle, K2). Other split bindings (Karakorum and Union) will not use the included puck (check with the manufacturer) but should come with all the equipment required to mount to the SPLITPIG.


Size 148 154
Tip Width (mm) 311 321
Waist Width (mm) 260 270
Tail Width (mm) 301 311
Sidecut Radius (m) 5.1 ​/ 6.2 5.6 ​/ 6.9
Rider Weight (lbs) 100 - 205 140 - 220​+
Width Regular Regular


Need some help with your snowboard purchase? Check out our snowboard buyers guide or contact us!


Snow ski technology is continually evolving and this year is no exception. Skis are generally getting shorter, waist widths are wider and increasing sidecuts especially on twin tips and big mountain fatties are opening them up to a bigger target market.

Ski sizing charts offer you a rough guide to suitable ski lengths for your height and weight. Other factors, like your ability and style of skiing, also come into play when you are choosing ski lengths. Please give us a call on 0800 22 73 74 or contact us if you are unsure about the length to choose. It can be tricky but we are here to make sure you get it right.

What should you consider in choosing skis?

  • How light you are
  • How tall you are
  • What level of Skiing you are at
  • What do you want to get out of your skis
  • And your level experience - where you like to ski and any other relevant info would be great.

From there we can recommend some options for you to have a look at to make sure we get you the right tool for the job.

The emphasis has moved away from traditional race skis. Carving/on-piste and all-mountain performance skis offer advanced and expert skiers the benefits of race technology, generated at world cup level, combined with wider waist widths and the deeper sidecuts flowing through from freeride skis.

There are a number of questions to consider that will narrow down your ski choices:

What type of skier are you?

The type of skis you should buy depends on the type of terrain you plan to ski and your skills and skiing experience.

Start your search for skis by asking yourself some important questions...

  • “How long have you skied?” and “Where have you skied?”

Now you have considered your skiing experience, you need to think about the type of skiing you like:

  • Do you like to ski slow, medium or fast?

  • Do you like to make wide-open turns or quick snappy ones?

And, finally, you need to think about where you like to ski:

  • Beginner, intermediate or expert trails?

  • On the piste/groomers, off-piste or in the terrain park?

Keep your skier profile in mind while going through the steps of finding the right ski.

Types of skis explained

Skis are categorized in many ways. It can be very confusing, but there are only a few categories you really need to understand.

  • Carve skis: Carving skis are great for intermediate skiers and people who just want to have fun on the snow and mostly on the piste (that means the groomed runs). They are easy to turn and control in most situations. Skiers do not have to expend too much energy. The higher level carvers are designed to perform and are ideal for individuals who are looking to improve and develop their skiing. They are designed to help you progress towards perfect carve turns, with a stiffer tail to give more stability at a higher speed.
  • All-Mountain: All-Mountain skis are designed to perform in all types of snow conditions and at most speeds. With wider waists and increased surface area, these skis will ride over difficult crud and variable snow with ease, while the wider tip helps to initiate the turn. This type of ski suits a lot of people because the majority of skiers don’t have the luxury of having several sets of skis to choose from and match to a day’s conditions.
  • Big Mountain/Freeride: Big mountain skis have a large surface area due to their wider waist width, this provides excellent flotation in all conditions from fresh powder to crud. Fat skis provide a real advantage if you want to learn to ski deep snow. Most of these skis have deeper sidecuts so they are easy to turn on piste when you need to. Suitable for people who prefer riding off-piste at least 60% of the time.
  • Powder: Designed to float atop powder, these are a popular backup pair of skis for those lucky enough to live in or visit places that get the big snow days! The mega-wide waist widths – ranging from 95mm to 130mm – keep the skis from sinking deep into fresh snow, but they can be challenging and sluggish to control on groomed runs.
  • Twin Tip skis: Twin tip skis have a curved-up tail along with the standard curved-up tip. Originally, twin tips were most popular with the freestyle set and were used to take off or land jumps backward. Nowadays, twin tips are also available as all-mountain skis, though most are actually “directional twins” – slightly longer and wider in the front. These work well off-piste and in the powder due to their bigger surface area and increased sidecuts.
  • Racing: Typically stiffer, longer and narrower than the average ski. Most race skiers know what they want, so there’s no point in going too deep here. If you’re not a racer, don’t even consider race skis. Sometimes they are known as Slalom or GS skis.

All of the above categories can be divided into women’s and junior groupings...

  • Women's skis: At BaseNZ we understand that women are built differently to men and that they have different needs in their equipment. Women are generally lighter and smaller than men and, as a result, tend to develop a skiing style based more on technique and finesse rather than raw power. And women’s equipment has been developed with this in mind. Women’s skis are lighter and softer to make pressuring the ski into an arc easier and help ease you into the turn. The binding position is moved forward, shifting weight to the tip of the ski making turn initiation easier. Women’s bindings are also lighter with lower release settings. Some include an angled ramp under the heel moving your body weight forward on the ski to compensate for a lower center of mass.
  • Juniors skis: Skis for children come in shorter lengths than adult-size skis and are lighter and softer flexing. When buying equipment for children, make sure to get them the right size skis and boots so they’ll be comfortable, rather than expecting them to grow into larger sizes. Very young children often don’t need poles, which can interfere with learning proper balance.

Determining Your Skiing Ability

After determining the right style of ski you are after, the next important step in choosing snow skis is determining which ones are right for your skill level. A ski built for all skill levels simply does not exist, so it’s vital that you buy a ski matching your ability. Picking a ski that’s either above or below your level will seriously impede your ability to get better.

Advanced level skis are stiffer and require more technique, but they respond quicker; they also need to be skied at higher speeds to make them turn.

Beginner to intermediate skis are softer and more forgiving, making it easier to initiate a turn at slower speeds with less technique. At high speeds, however, they can create a lot of chatter, making them hard to control. The bottom line is that buying a ski above your skill level will be a waste of your money and your time, so choose carefully. Here’s a rough guide to gauging your ability.

There are various different levels of skiing ability that you may be classified under. From lowest to highest, the levels are:

  • Beginner: This is the level for skiers who are just beginning their skiing careers. The skier has either never skied before or has skied only a few times.

  • Advanced Beginner: When a skier is comfortable on the green runs (beginner runs) and is moving up to blue runs.

  • Intermediate: The comfort level is on groomed blue runs that can be skied with relative ease.

  • Advanced Intermediate: The skier is moving up to black diamonds and other terrain.

  • Advanced: Black diamonds and other terrain are comfortable.

  • Expert: All-terrain including powder, out of bounds, moguls, etc. are skied with ease.

The key is to pick a range that you are comfortable with, but one you can also improve with, unless of course, you are an expert. Look for a pair of skis that match your level at the lowest part of the range; this way you can improve with your ski.

There is no advantage to buying a ski that is significantly better than you. More advanced skis must be “loaded up,” meaning you really need to get some speed and weight into them to get them to carve. But if you can’t get the right speed and pressure, the skis will be difficult to control. 

Technical Terms Explained


Technically speaking, sidecut refers to the long, inward curves on both sides of a ski. It's designated by 3 numbers: the widths, in millimeters, of the ski's tip, waist and tail. The greater difference in these numbers means the larger the sidecut.

All modern skis have a sidecut so that they can turn when you tip them onto the edge. Without it, your skis would want to go straight when you decided to cut left or right.


Skis continue to get wider in most user groups. Ski width is typically measured in three areas: the width at the tip, at the waist, and at the tail (for example, 122/90/115). These measurements give you an accurate idea of the uses for a ski.

Generally, your ski needs to be wider if you’re going to be skiing in powder. The more time you plan to spend off-piste  /in powder, the wider you want your skis to be. This spreads your weight out and lets you glide over the snow, instead of plowing through it. Wider skis also provide a more stable platform, which makes it easier to balance when moving through variable snow conditions.


Ski flex is the term used to describe how hard it is to bend the ski in order to make it turn. A softer flex is used a lot in beginner skis, as it makes them easier to handle. As riders improve they ride faster and more powerfully meaning they require a stiffer flexing ski to get the most control and performance.

Integrated Binding system

While sorting through skis, you’ll notice many come with bindings attached. These are known as integrated bindings, as they are built into and are a part of the skis themselves. So, what set-up should you choose? Unless you’re an experienced racer or freestyle skier with specific binding needs, integrated bindings are highly recommended.


Very basically: Shorter = easier. Longer = harder, but faster. Because of the sidecut, skis no longer need to be long in length to give you plenty of stability at high speeds. As a general rule, most beginner skis should come up to your nose, intermediate skiers around eye height and expert skiers your forehead to head height. But you need to consider the type of skiing you’ll be doing, your skill level, and your weight. All these things impact how long a ski should be.

Generally, beginners and intermediates should stick with shorter skis for ease of turning and better control. Once you move up to greater speed and different kinds of conditions, you can begin to play around with your ski length — longer might in time be better for you.

Here is a bit of info to help you narrow your ideal ski length down.

Optimal ski length is determined according to (in order): weight, physical ability, skier height and type of skier (aggressive/non-aggressive).

Less aggressive skiers should choose a smaller size, while more aggressive and experienced skiers may want to choose a size up.

Beginner Your height - 10 cm Your height - 10 cm Your height - 5 cm
Intermediate Your height - 7 cm Your height - 5 cm Your height
Experienced Your height - 5 cm Your height Your height
Expert Your height Your height + 5 cm Your height + 5 cm



  • You are a beginner-intermediate level skier
  • You prefer making shorter/quicker turns 
  • You are looking for a carving ski 
  • You weigh less than average for your height


  • You are an advanced-expert level skier
  • You like skiing fast and making longer turns
  • You mostly ski off trial
  • You are looking at a ski with a lot of rocker
  • You weigh more than average for your height

Need further help? Get in touch our ski crew would love to help you identify the best skis for your needs.

Learn How to Make Buying Your Next Snowboard a little Easier

Snowboarding is all about fun. But buying a new board can be daunting, even downright confusing, if you’re not clued up on some basics. It’s not all about choosing a cool graphic and hoping for the best. It’s about finding a board that is going to take your riding where you want it to go...
You can really narrow it down by asking yourself a few questions and doing a little research.

What snowboards have you tried in the past?

This might be your first snowboard purchase or your third. You may have rented a few boards, taken some out for a demo and/or even tried some of your mate’s boards. Now ask yourself what you liked and didn’t like about the boards you have ridden in the past.

Where on the mountain do you WANT to ride?

Yeah, that’s right. It’s not really about where you are riding now but where you want to progress to with your snowboarding journey in the future.

Maybe you’re getting over just riding the groomed runs and want to start riding more off-piste terrain. Or you have discovered the joys of the terrain park and want to learn how to ride and land switch.

What mountain do you ride at mostly?

This can narrow things down also. Say you ride at Cardrona for example. There is a lot of varying terrain that you may want to use, and all in one day! From carving morning groomers to powder runs through the Arcadia cutes to a terrain park session in the afternoon.

Or maybe you are a full fledged club field rider who just wants to ride off-piste and nail some sweet rock drops. The terrain that you ride most is all relevant to buying your next board, so lets look at some board types now.



Jump, spin, slide and bonk everything, be it in the park or off a rock. There is a broad range for this one, but the most common traits are a true twin shape and a flex pattern that rides the same switch or regular. If you’re more after mini-shredding or riding the box and rail line, then look for a softer flexing board.

Those wanting to send it deep or boost out the pipe should aim for something stiffer, and with traditional camber giving you more stability and pop. Blunt or pointy tips are currently popular but mostly cosmetic so don’t let them freak you out.

All Mountain

Like riding everywhere and everything? Then focus your attention on this category of boards. These will tend to have a directional flex with either a directional or twin shape. Though even if they have directional shapes they will be twin-looking. Riding forward should be your primary agenda but the occasional switch takeoff or landings will be no problem.


Designed for gunning it in down in one direction through powder, crud, groomers and drops. These are directional in shape and flex, more often with a longer nose and a shorter, stiffer tapered tail. This will enhance float and prevent you going over the handlebars. Also great for going overseas. We like these at BaseNZ.

Split Boards

Best for going backcountry and earning your turns. These backcountry-specific boards split in half to create two skis like platforms for climbing on untracked backcountry slopes. When you’re at the top, reconnect the halves and ride that puppy down. You earnt it.

It’s a great design for adventurous backcountry devotees who have the knowledge, skills and confidence to safely explore un-patrolled slopes. You’ll also need climbing skins, split board specific bindings, backcountry safety gear and most importantly, a buddy to go with.


Traditional or Positive

Camber gives a lively, stable ride with the contact points at the far ends of the board. Camber is super stable at speeds and and also gives you that lovely pop when coming out of turns. It also gives the best edge hold in hard snow conditions. Great for New Zealand riding.


Flat have a neutral, or no camber bend underfoot rather than cambered. They enable quick turns and maximum feel underfoot while increasing float in soft snow. Because they have no bend in them, as soon as you put them on edge they will initiate a turn. A great option that sits between traditional and reverse camber.

Rocker or Reverse

Rocker camber creates upturned tips and tails bringing your contact points in under you feet.

The design excels in powder and when jibbing or riding rails in the park but it’s downside it that it can feel a little unstable on hard snow.

Rockered boards are softer than cambered boards and tend to have a surfy feel that offers easy turn initiation , making them popular among beginner riders. Don’t be fooled, experienced riders can still put powerful turns on a rocker board and many prefer them.


Hybrid Camber boards combine two popular profiles to provide the superior edge hold of traditional camber while giving the easy turning, forgiving and flotation benefits of rocker.

This can either be with traditional camber under the feet and rocker in between the feet, or with traditional camber in between the feet and rocker toward the tip and tail.

Both versions give similar results. Board manufacturers have hatched lots of variations of hybrid camber and all have their own name for it. This is a great camber to consider if you want to ride the whole mountain but have a soft spot for the park.


When riding your snowboard, you’re using body weight to control the board, it determines how the board flexes underneath you. Your board doesn’t know how tall you are only how heavy.

This is why we always recommend choosing a board on weight and height combined rather than height alone. If you are super tall but don’t weigh much then the rule of

between the chin and nose rule might not work for you. Same thing if you’re on the heavy side for your height. Where you ride is also a massive factor at play when

choosing your snowboard size. If you are a learner or spend lots of time in the park then you might want to go slightly shorter. While if you prefer the off-piste and powder then go slightly longer to give improve stability and increased surface area.


Age (yrs)

Height (cm)

Weight (kg)

Snowboard Length (cm)




< 80














































Most people won’t have to worry about this too much, just roll with the width that your reccomended length has. We try to include waist width’s on all our snowboard descriptions to make it easier for you to figure out if you need a WIDE board or a MID-WIDE board.

Below might help you figure out what waist width you need

Why is snowboard width important?

Well, if your feet are too big for your snowboard then your toes and heels will drag in the snow when you are on edge and as you can imagine that’s not going to be great. At the other end of the scale, if your feet are too small for your snowboard then you won’t be able to get the snowboard on edge properly.

Sometimes if you are experiencing toe drag with your current set up, adjusting you bindings can help.

Also purchasing boots with a smaller footprint can also help if you have large feet.


When you choose what board shape you are after, again it comes down to where on the mountain you will do most of your riding. Here are the three most common shapes and the kind of rider that they would suit.


Mostly found in free-ride snowboards and sometimes  all-mountain boards, the directional shape is non-symmetrical in shape and construction.  Designed to be mostly ridden in one direction, they have a specified nose and tail with each end being different in stiffness, shape.

Directional boards usually have a stiffer tail than nose. This creates a stable ride when flying down mountains.

True Twin

The true twin dominates the freestyle scene. Also known as twin tip, it means that the tip and tail are identical in both flex and shape. This symmetrical shape allows park, pipe, and street riders to perform and land tricks with ease if they are riding regular or switch.

Directional Twin

Most commonly found in all-mountain boards,the directional twin shape is a great all-around board shape. Consisting of a nose and tail that are different in construction,  they also have a slightly longer nose than tail and could also have a softer nose than tail or a combination of the two. Having a longer nose gives you better float when riding powder and a stiffer tail will create more stability when riding at higher speed.


Flex generally comes down to what your snowboard is built out of. Snowboards cores are mostly made out of wood, but extra layers can be added to create a stiffer, more responsive and ofter more durable snowboard.  Most companies will rate this out of 10, 10 being really stiff and 1 being really soft.

A board’s flex can often be stiffer in the tail for better edge hold and snap, but softer towards the nose making turn initiation easier and allowing better float in powder and crud. These boards are known as having a ‘directional flex’. On the other hand, boards designed to ride switch just as well as forwards will have a ‘twin flex’, which is exactly the same in the nose and tail.

Stiff Flex

Stiff boards offer users increased edge grip and better response, particularly at high speeds. Generally favoured by more advanced free-riders who are looking to ride fast, hard and go big. They’re also able to absorb the heaviest of landings without buckling.

The downside is that if you are a learner, or looking to do low-speed tricks, stiff boards can be unforgiving and hard to manoeuvre. Carbon components are commonly used to add stiffness and pop without significantly increasing weight. If you’re a heavier rider you might find a stiff board a better option also.

Medium Flex

The middle man in the flex family is a go-to if you want one board to do it all. You will often find that All-Mountain boards sit in this category. While soft flexing boards are typically a beginner’s go-to, some novices may find that medium flex better suits their riding style and will progress with them.

Soft Flex

Softer boards, like most jib specific models, make it easy to press rails and boxes and are easier to manoeuvre at slower speeds. They are also more forgiving of mistakes since rider input is not transferred into the edge quite so rapidly. They also work well if you are a bit of a lightweight. The downside is, they are not great in hard and icy conditions and high speeds.


Back in the day snowboard companies simply sized down men’s snowboards and added some pretty pink graphics featuring flowers and animals to them. Not anymore!

Companies have created women-specific product groups, added to their women’s pro teams and created boards specifically for women based on their feedback. Women’s bodies and turn mechanics are different than men. Since women tend to have less body mass and smaller feet than men of the same height, women’s snowboards tend to have narrower waist widths, thinner profiles, and softer flexes.


So, we hope this helps narrow things down a bit for you. It’s always great to read about all this info, but at the end of the day there is nothing like talking to one of the BaseNZ experts in store about what you are after.

If you want to discuss your board purchase but are unable to make it into one of our Wanaka or Queenstown stores please give us a call or email and we can set you in the right direction.





Shipping is free NZ-wide on orders over $50*

*$5 shipping for rural addresses - please select "I need rural delivery" at check out.

When will I receive my Order? - Depending on what it is and how large your order is plays a big part on how long it will take.

Once we receive your order we will get it out to you as soon as possible. Some times the stock can be in our Queenstown store and needs to be brought over to Wanaka to ship out. So small items once sent are on overnight NZ Post so should be 1-2 business days and larger items 2-4 business days (we are experiencing longer times to Auckland or items traveling through Auckland at this point so please allow more time).

Please keep in mind that if you have a rural address this can add an extra day or two also.

In general, we ship our orders with CourierPost, which we run on a 1-2 day service with pickup at 2pm each day.  

Larger items, such as luggage, skis and snowboards, ship on an earlier service with PBT couriers. This is a fully traceable service. (Just to note: if it is a rural delivery, it can take a few more days depending on your local service.)


Want to come collect your order from our store in Wanaka or Queenstown? Great! We will email you when your order is ready to collect. This can take from 2-4 business days depending on what it is.

If you would like a more accurate delivery time then just CONTACT US or give us a call within business hours on 0800 227 374.


All the stock you see online is in New Zealand! Not from somewhere dodgy overseas.

Orders made during the weekend or on public holidays, when couriers do not operate, will be processed on the following business day or soon after.

Online is a crazy business and sometime inventory can get mucked up, we may not have the ordered item on hand. If we cannot fulfil your entire order, within the stated time frames, we aim to contact you within 36hrs (Mon-Fri). 

Should you not receive an order confirmation or update please check your spam/junk filter in your email as it may have been filtered incorrectly. 

If an item ordered is unavailable for shipping, depending on your preference, we will:

  • Substitute another product for your order
  • Refund or credit your order.
  • Ship your order at a later date
  • Contact you when the requested item is back in stock


Simple: Shipping is FREE for New Zealand orders over $50*

*$5 shipping for rural addresses

We use Courierpost for smaller items and PBT Couriers for larger items. All items are sent on a traceable service and we will email you confirmation when your order is dispatched.

International orders will be calculated after the order has been placed and you will be notified on the cost.


We can offer the best price possible for a traceable, signature service which is targeted for 2-6 business days with a flat rate of $28 to Australia, as most of the orders are under 2KG. If your order is over 2KG, we will contact you to advise of the shipping rate. 

International shipping is non-refundable after the items have been sent.

*If your delivery is considered Rural / Urban by DHL or to Tasmania, where additional charges will apply, we will contact you to advise you of this charge. At no point will we change an additional amount without your authorization.

For inquiries about Australian shipping and delivery: CONTACT US


Place orders on-line by adding items to your Shopping Cart and proceeding to Checkout. You can use your credit card via our secure transaction gateway to pay or select to pay or any of our part pay options.

If you prefer to pay by bank deposit, give us a call to arrange it.

If you have questions about merchandise or are looking for something you can't find online, please call us between 10 am and 3pm New Zealand Standard Time (+12GMT) Monday to Friday at 0800 227 374, or CONTACT US.


We ship for FREE within NZ on orders over $50 that are non-rural.

We use Courierpost for smaller items and PBT Couriers for larger items. All items are sent on a Traceable Service and we will email you confirming your order has been dispatched with a tracking number.


International shipping is via DHL Couriers or New Zealand Post.

BaseNZ.com is not responsible for any customs charges or duties incurred, these are the responsibility of the receiver. Please call your local customs office for information. If your international order needs to be returned for a change of size or you change your mind BaseNZ.com is not responsible for return shipping costs. If BaseNZ.com makes a mistake with your international order BaseNZ.com will cover return shipping costs.

NOTE: If you are not in New Zealand or Australia then we do not have a shipping cost option at check out and will notify you will the shipping price once order has been placed.


Some brands are restricted and cannot be shipped internationally.  For more information please CONTACT US or call us on 0800 227 373 within business hours.